Bandhavgarh: My First Awakening in the Wild 

For years, I lived among the wild. Or rather, I lived among the images of it. Award winning canvases of wildlife, photographed by my husband and daughter, donned our living room walls, yet I never felt the urge to experience it myself. I always thought safaris were merely about portraits , watching animals in wild and social media posts. I never understood why my husband prioritized the wilderness over every other vacation… until now.

Between the hectic schedules of the hospital, I always seek thrill, adventure, and space for introspection which the mountains offered effortlessly . A short, three-day visit to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh, organized by Sachin Rai of The Gliding Frog, gave me all of that in a magnitude I never imagined.

The Strategy of the Wild:

What moved me most wasn’t just the “sighting,” but the strategy behind it. Sachin’s  team was a masterclass in expertise: Sachin (our naturalist , expert photographer and strategist), Salim and Pankaj (our incredible drivers), and Kamta and Deepa (our passionate guides).

Watching them was mesmerising. They interpreted the “cross-talk” of the forest, the sharp alarm calls of spotted deer, Sambar, and barking deer and langurs and predicted the movements of tigers based on pugmarks and past records. Their knowledge of each tiger’s personality and routine turned the forest into a living, breathing story.

The Tigers of Bandhavgarh:

I was fortunate enough to see nine tigers during this three full day safari at Bandhavgarh . The contrast in their nature was striking! the curious, inquisitive demeanour of the cubs and sub-adults contrasted the unbothered, majestic confidence of the adults who claimed the forest with every stare and step they put forward !

The most unforgettable moment? Facing the tigress Tara  at a talaab (pond) near vanthalaiyya , khitouli zone . Seeing her walk straight towards us from barely 50 meters away was the scariest situation I’ve ever faced. I was so shaken I nearly fumbled with my 300mm lens, but Sachin’s encouraging words helped me capture the shot of a lifetime.

More Than Just the Big Cats:

While the tigers are the stars, the rest of the forest cast is just as captivating!

The graceful Spotted Deer, Sambar, chital and Indian gazelle .

A rare, beautiful moment watching a Jackal with her cubs.

The vibrant birdlife: From the Indian Roller and Kingfisher to the Stork, Hornbill, Indian Serpent Eagle, and various Raptors.

A Landscape that Breathes:

Even when the tigers were elusive, the varied terrains kept us hooked. We explored all three zones (Tala, Magadhi, and Khitouli) from 5:30 AM to 7:00 PM. Even in the peak Central Indian summer, the beauty was breathtaking:

The rows of Jamunia trees and the vast Chakradhara meadows.

The picturesque Gopalpur Talaab and the rocky cliffs of Ganesh Pahadi.

The dark, dense forest of Andhiyari jhiriya  with its clear water streams.

The colourful vantalaiyya   Talaab, which almost “painted” Tigress Tara green with its reflections and algae .

Reflections!!

I returned with a heavy heart, a full memory card, and a new obsession. I now find myself wondering: Who will rule which area next? Who will partner with whom? How will Tara’s  cubs turn out?

This trip was a perfect blend of laughter, luxury, great company , unimaginable hospitality and life-changing memories. It taught me that forests create memories of a lifetime, and choosing the right skipper and guide helps you create the best memories ever.

I’m already counting the days until I can get back!

Dr Madhuri Vidyashankar , Gynaec laparoscopic surgeon , Bangalore .

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